Buying a used excavator is a smart investment, especially as the used equipment market is set to grow by over 5.8% annually. This inspection guide provides essential inspection tips for buying a used excavator. Your used excavator inspection should focus on four key areas: the undercarriage, hydraulics, engine, and structural integrity. A thorough check of these parts helps you evaluate a used excavator and determine its true condition and value.
A proper inspection is one of the most important things to consider when buying a used excavator. It helps you find a reliable second-hand excavator and ensures the quality of your purchase. Following a systematic process for buying second-hand excavators protects your investment in any second hand machine.
Step 1: Documentation and History Review
Before you even touch the machine, your used excavator inspection should begin with the paperwork. The documents tell a story about the excavator and its history. This step is essential when buying a used excavator because it helps you understand the machine's background and true value.
Verify Operating Hours and Machine Age
You should first check the hour meter and the machine's manufacturing year. The operating hours tell you how much the machine has worked. Most excavators have a general lifespan of 7,000 to 10,000 hours before needing major repairs.
Hydraulic excavators often leave primary service around 9,800 hours.
Mini-excavators have a similar lifespan of about 10,000 hours.
However, low hours do not always mean better quality. A well-maintained used excavator with higher hours can be a better investment than a poorly maintained one with fewer hours. Good maintenance significantly extends a machine's life and preserves its value.
Analyze Service and Maintenance Records
Next, you need to analyze the service records. These documents prove how well the previous owner cared for the machine. A complete maintenance log shows a commitment to upkeep. Look for records of regular fluid changes, parts replacements, and any major repairs. A detailed logbook should show the date of service, issues found, and the corrective actions taken. This information gives you a clear picture of the machine's current condition.
Confirm Clear Ownership and No Liens
Finally, you must confirm the seller legally owns the equipment and that there are no outstanding financial claims (liens) against it. Ask the seller for proof of ownership. You can also check for liens by looking up Uniform Commercial Code (UCC) filings with the Secretary of State. A lien can create serious legal and financial problems for you later.
Your lender may check for liens, but you are ultimately responsible for ensuring the title is clear. A seller’s warranty is only as good as their ability to back it up. Hidden liens can exist, so a thorough inspection of ownership documents is critical to avoid future conflicts.
Step 2: The Initial Walk-Around Inspection
After reviewing the paperwork, your next step is a thorough visual inspection. This walk-around is crucial for inspecting the external excavator condition. It helps you spot obvious defects and assess the machine's overall quality. This part of the used excavator inspection sets the stage for more detailed checks.
Assess Overall Machine Condition
You should start by examining the excavator from a distance, then move closer. Look for signs of wear and tear that might suggest deeper problems. A simple visual inspection can reveal a lot about the machine's history and its true value. Pay close attention to the following areas:
Cracks, Bends, and Dents: Check for cracks at key weld points, especially between the boom and stick. Significant bends or large dents can indicate improper use or structural damage.
Leaks: Look for fluid leaks around the hydraulic pump, hoses, and cylinders. These can signal serious issues that require expensive repairs.
Minor cosmetic issues are common on a used machine, but major structural problems are a red flag when buying a used excavator.
Look for Leaks Underneath the Excavator
You must carefully check for fluid leaks underneath the excavator. Leaks are a common problem with used equipment and can point to poor maintenance. Get on your hands and knees to look for drips or wet spots on the ground. Check the hydraulic lines, cylinders, and swing motor area.
Pro Tip: Place a large piece of cardboard under the machine before you start your inspection. This makes it easier to spot fresh drips of hydraulic fluid, engine oil, or coolant.
The location of a leak can tell you a lot about the repair's urgency.
Leak Location | Possible Cause | Urgency to Repair |
|---|---|---|
Cylinder rod seal | Worn seal, pitted chrome | High |
Hose connection | Loose fitting | Medium |
Under the swing motor | Main seal failure | High |
Filter housing | Cracked housing, old O-ring | Medium |
Check the Carbody and Counterweight for Damage
Finally, inspect the carbody and counterweight. The carbody is the upper structure of the excavator that houses the engine and cab. Check for large dents, scrapes, or fresh paint that might hide previous damage. The counterweight at the rear of the machine often shows signs of impact. While some wear is normal, excessive damage could indicate a history of careless operation. A well-maintained machine will show a consistent condition across all its parts.
Step 3: Structural Integrity and Attachment Inspection
The structural parts of an excavator handle immense stress. Your visual inspection must carefully check these components for damage and wear. This step is vital when buying a used excavator because hidden defects can lead to costly failures and unsafe operation.
Examine the Boom and Stick for Cracks or Welds
You should closely examine the boom and stick, which are the excavator's primary working arms. Look for hairline cracks, especially around weld seams. Pay special attention to high-stress areas where cracks often start.
Bucket Corners: Check where the bucket connects, as this area handles high digging forces.
Pin and Linkage Points: Inspect the areas around pins, as constant movement creates stress.
Boom Assembly: Look at the top radius of the boom and the main pin mount at the base.
Fresh paint can hide repair welds. While a professional repair on a small crack might be acceptable, extensive welding can signal serious structural damage. Poor repairs can lower the machine's value and compromise its quality.
A well-documented, professional repair may have a minimal impact on the excavator's resale value. However, poorly executed or extensive welding could significantly decrease its worth and reliability. Always ask for repair records.
Inspect the Bucket and Teeth for Wear
Next, check the condition of the bucket and its teeth. The bucket's walls should be thick and free of major dents or cracks. Worn-out teeth reduce digging efficiency and need to be replaced. Look at the bucket's cutting edge for excessive wear or a scalloped pattern, which indicates it has lost its original shape. A bucket in poor condition can be a sign of a hard-working life and may require immediate replacement.
Evaluate the Quick Coupler and Attachments
Finally, evaluate the quick coupler mechanism. This component allows for fast attachment changes. A worn coupler can cause a "wobbly bucket," which leads to inaccurate work and premature wear on both the attachment and the excavator. Check for a loose fit between the coupler and the attachment. Ensure the locking pins engage securely. If the used machine comes with other attachments, perform the same inspection on each one to assess their overall condition.
Step 4: The Undercarriage: A Critical Component Check
An excellent used excavator inspection requires a deep dive into the undercarriage. This system supports the entire machine and is responsible for its mobility. The undercarriage can account for up to 50% of an excavator's total maintenance costs over its lifetime, making this step critical. A thorough check here helps you understand the machine's true condition and avoid expensive future repairs.
Mike Lazzara, a product support sales manager, emphasizes the importance of this area: "Approximately 50 percent of the maintenance cost of a track machine is in the undercarriage. It's huge. So, it's to the owner's advantage to keep the undercarriage maintained properly."
Inspecting Tracks, Pads, and Tension
Your inspection should start with the tracks. Look at the track pads, also known as grousers, for damage like cracks, bends, or excessive wear. The height of the grousers tells you how much life is left in the tracks. Worn-down grousers reduce traction and performance.
Next, you need to check the track tension.
Too Loose: A loose track can come off the rollers, a process called "de-tracking." This can cause significant damage and downtime.
Too Tight: A tight track causes accelerated wear on all undercarriage components, including rollers, idlers, and sprockets.
To check the tension, lift one side of the excavator off the ground using the boom and stick. Measure the sag of the track between the carrier roller and the idler. The correct amount of sag is usually specified in the manufacturer's manual.
Checking Rollers, Idlers, and Sprockets
Now, you must examine the rollers, idlers, and sprockets. These parts guide the track and bear the machine's weight. Replacing them can cost anywhere from hundreds to thousands of dollars, so identifying wear is crucial when buying a used excavator.
Rollers: Check both the top (carrier) and bottom (track) rollers for flat spots, cracks, or oil leaks from the seals. Worn rollers will have a flattened appearance instead of a rounded one.
Idlers: The idlers are the large wheels at the front of the track frame. Look for signs of uneven wear, such as flattened treads or wear on the center flange. You can measure idler wear with a depth gauge to get a precise value.
Sprockets: The sprockets are the toothed wheels at the rear that drive the tracks. Inspect the teeth for a "hooked" or pointed shape. Sharp teeth indicate significant wear and mean the sprockets will need replacement soon.
The table below shows common wear patterns on idlers and what they might indicate about the used machine's past use.
Wear Pattern | Possible Cause | What It Means for Quality |
|---|---|---|
Center Flange Side Wear | Constant turning or working on slopes | Suggests hard use; may reduce component life. |
Uneven Tread Wear | Misalignment or track frame twisting | Indicates potential underlying frame issues. |
Tread Spalling | High impact or overly tight tracks | Can be cosmetic but may point to poor operation. |
Evaluating the Final Drives for Leaks
Finally, you must evaluate the final drives. These are the gearboxes that transfer power from the hydraulic motors to the sprockets. Repairing or replacing a final drive is one of the most expensive jobs on an excavator, so you must look for any hidden defects.
Carefully inspect the final drive housing for any signs of oil leaks. A leak suggests a failing seal, which can allow dirt and water to enter the gearbox, destroying the internal components. Also, place your hand on the final drive cover after the machine has been running. If it feels excessively hot, it could be a sign of failing bearings or low gear oil.
Common warning signs of a failing final drive include:
Loud grinding or whining noises during operation.
Excessive vibration coming from the drive.
Reduced travel power or jerky movements.
Finding any of these issues is a major red flag. It signals that the final drive may need an expensive overhaul, which will significantly impact the machine's overall value.
Step 5: Engine and In-Cab Systems: The Heart of the Excavator
You are now moving to the core of the machine. The engine provides power, and the cab is your command center. A detailed inspection here is essential when buying a used excavator. This step involves inspecting the internal excavator condition to assess its health and true value.
Performing a Cold Start Engine Test
You must perform an engine test from a "cold start." This means the engine has not been run for several hours. A cold start reveals problems that a warm engine can hide. When you turn the key, pay close attention to how the engine behaves. A healthy engine should start quickly without excessive smoke.
If the engine struggles to start, it could point to several issues. Common causes of engine failure in a used excavator include:
Oil thickening in cold weather, which can clog parts.
A broken or malfunctioning starter.
A dead battery or a disconnected cable.
Fuel lines clogged with dirt or debris.
Internal mechanical problems, like low oil pressure.
Faulty wiring or other electrical problems.
Listen carefully for any unusual noises right after it starts. A very loud, abnormal noise during a cold start is a major warning sign. This sound might persist at both low and high speeds but then disappear as the engine gets hot. This often points to a problem with an engine valve seat ring, causing a cylinder to not work correctly. The noise goes away as the metal expands with heat, but the underlying damage remains.
Pro Tip: Watch the exhaust smoke. A little white smoke that disappears quickly is normal. However, continuous blue smoke indicates the engine is burning oil, while black smoke suggests a fuel system problem.
Inspecting All Fluid Levels and Conditions
Fluids are the lifeblood of your excavator. Their condition tells a story about the machine's maintenance history. Checking them is a simple but critical part of your inspection. You should check the engine oil, coolant, and hydraulic fluid.
Engine Oil and Coolant: Pull the dipstick to check the engine oil. It should be a clear, amber color. Milky or frothy oil suggests coolant is leaking into the engine, a very serious problem. Similarly, check the coolant in the radiator or overflow tank. If you see oil contamination or significant discoloration in the coolant, it signals developing issues that could lead to a costly engine rebuild.
Hydraulic Fluid: Check the hydraulic fluid level and appearance through the sight glass. Dark, milky, or metallic-looking fluid indicates serious system contamination. These signs require immediate attention to prevent a complete hydraulic system failure.
Ignoring fluid condition can be a costly mistake. A major engine or hydraulic repair can cost tens of thousands of dollars, far exceeding the initial savings on a used machine.
Fluid Type | Good Condition | Warning Signs |
|---|---|---|
Engine Oil | Clear, amber color | Milky, dark, gritty, low level |
Coolant | Bright color (green, pink) | Oily, rusty, discolored |
Hydraulic Fluid | Clear, light amber | Milky, dark, foamy, metallic sheen |
Testing Cab Controls, Gauges, and Electronics
Finally, you need to climb into the cab and test everything. Modern excavators rely on complex electronics, and failures can stop a machine completely. Electrical challenges, such as damaged wire connectors and switch failures, are common and can cause significant downtime.
You should systematically test every function. Turn on the air conditioning and heat. Check all lights, the windshield wiper, and the horn. Look at the display panel for any error codes or warning lights. Make sure all gauges for temperature, fuel, and pressure are working correctly.
Cabin control failure is a major issue that affects both performance and safety. Pay close attention to the joysticks and control panels.
Faulty Electrical Connections: Loose or corroded wires can cause controls to behave erratically.
Broken Controls: Physical damage to joysticks or buttons can prevent you from giving commands.
Circuit and Sensor Failure: Problems with circuits or sensors can lead to unstable operation and reduced accuracy.
ECU Failure: The electronic control unit (ECU) is the excavator's brain. A malfunction here will cause abnormal operation and requires an expert diagnosis.
Test every button and lever to ensure the machine responds smoothly and correctly. A non-functioning switch may seem minor, but it could be a symptom of a larger electrical problem.
Step 6: Operational Test: A Complete Second Hand Excavator Inspection Guide
The final part of your inspection involves testing the excavator performance. This operational test shows you how the machine works under load. It is the best way to confirm the excavator's true condition and value. You should run the machine for at least 15-20 minutes to let all systems reach operating temperature.
Testing Hydraulic Speed and Power
You must now test the hydraulic system's speed and power. A strong hydraulic system is essential for good performance. A weak pump can lead to slow operation and costly repairs. You should look for several warning signs of a failing hydraulic pump.
Loud Noises: Listen for any banging or knocking sounds from the pump. These noises often point to air in the system or excessive wear.
High Temperature: A hydraulic system running hotter than 82°C (180°F) suggests a problem. The excess heat can damage seals and lower fluid quality.
Visible Leaks: Check for any fluid leaking from the pump or hoses. Leaks cause a drop in pressure and performance.
Weak Operation: Notice if the excavator struggles to lift the boom or if the travel motors seem weak. This indicates low hydraulic pressure.
A slow or weak hydraulic system is a major issue. It directly impacts the machine's productivity and can signal an expensive failure is coming. This is a critical check for any used excavator.
Checking for Slew Ring and Swing Motor Play
Next, you need to check the slew ring, which allows the excavator's house to rotate. A small amount of play is normal in any slew ring. However, excessive movement is a serious red flag. It points to wear that can risk safety and lead to a very expensive repair.
To check for play, extend the boom and bucket straight out. Lower the bucket to the ground and apply slight downward pressure. Have someone watch the slew ring as you gently swing the house from side to side. Look for any rocking or vertical movement between the upper structure and the undercarriage. The acceptable amount of play depends on the specific excavator model. You should always check the manufacturer's guidelines for the correct specifications.
Operating All Functions Through a Full Cycle
To complete your operational inspection, you must operate every function through a full cycle. This test ensures all parts of the second hand machine work together smoothly. A complete cycle helps you find hidden problems you might have missed. This is your chance to find a reliable second-hand excavator.
You should follow a simple checklist for this final test:
Warm-Up: Let the engine warm up and watch the gauges for normal readings.
Cycle Hydraulics: At a low idle, move the boom, stick, and bucket through their full range of motion. The movements should be smooth, not jerky.
Test Slew: Swing the house a full 360 degrees in both directions. Listen for grinding noises from the swing motor.
Test Travel: Drive the second hand excavator forward and in reverse. Test both tracks to ensure they move at the same speed.
Check for Drift: Raise the boom and hold it in place for a few minutes. It should not slowly sink or "drift" down.
You should watch for common defects with used excavators like major leaks, excessive slew ring play, or cracks in the boom. A used excavator with these warnings is not a reliable second-hand excavator. Trust your inspection findings. If a machine shows multiple red flags, it is wise to walk away. This protects you from expensive repairs, which can cost over $15,000 for an undercarriage rebuild alone.
For a final verdict, a third-party inspection is your best tool. A certified mechanic can assess the excavator's true condition and value, finding hidden defects you might miss. This third-party inspection ensures you buy a reliable second-hand excavator and secure a quality machine. You will find a reliable second-hand excavator.
FAQ
What are the biggest red flags to look for?
You should watch for four major warning signs. These include large hydraulic fluid leaks, cracks in the boom or stick, and loud engine noises. Also, check for excessive movement or play in the slew ring. These issues often signal very expensive repairs and poor machine quality.
How many hours are too many for a used excavator?
An excavator's condition is more important than its hours. Many machines need major work around 7,000 to 10,000 hours. However, you can find a reliable second-hand excavator with high hours if it has excellent maintenance records. Good care extends a machine's life significantly.
Is fresh paint on a used excavator a bad sign?
Fresh paint can be a warning sign. Some sellers use it to hide cracks, welds, or other damage. You should inspect freshly painted areas with extra care. However, it can also mean the previous owner took pride in maintaining the machine's appearance.
Should I get a professional mechanic to inspect the machine?
Yes, a professional inspection is a great idea. This guide helps you spot obvious problems. A qualified mechanic can find hidden issues with the engine or hydraulics. Their expert opinion helps you confirm the excavator's true condition and value, ensuring a quality purchase.
